Chicago is a city known for its diverse and vibrant food scene, and one cuisine that stands out among the rest is Mexican food. With its bold flavors, fresh ingredients, and rich cultural history, it’s no wonder that Chicago is blessed with dozens of great Mexican restaurants. However, there is one restaurant that has been cooking up regional Mexican food for almost 40 years and has become a staple in the city’s culinary landscape.
According to NBC Chicago’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky, this restaurant is none other than Frontera Grill. Owned and operated by renowned chef Rick Bayless, Frontera Grill has been serving up authentic and delicious Mexican dishes since 1987. However, it wasn’t always smooth sailing for Bayless, who faced criticism for being a white chef from Oklahoma daring to cook regional Mexican food in the mid-80s. But he didn’t let that stop him from pursuing his passion and devoting his life to studying Mexican culture and cuisine.
Opening in River North in 1987 was considered a risky bet, but Bayless was determined to share his love for Mexican food with the people of Chicago. And over the years, Frontera Grill has become a beloved institution in the city, with its margaritas flowing for 37 years. However, the neighborhood around it has undergone significant changes, and Bayless reflects on how it used to be a rough area when they first opened.
But despite the challenges, Bayless remained committed to his mission of representing the true breadth of Mexican food and presenting it in a contemporary way. This is evident in the diverse and flavorful dishes that Frontera Grill offers, inspired by different regions of Mexico. From bright ceviche from the coasts to fried corn masa quesadillas from Mexico City, and of course, the famous mole from Puebla, Frontera Grill has something for everyone.
The mole at Frontera Grill is a labor of love, made from more than a dozen ingredients, including spices, peanuts, tortillas, sesame seeds, toasted bread, and almonds. The base of the sauce is always toasted and ground chiles, giving it a complex and rich flavor. And Bayless is proud to say that they make all their sauces in-house, just like how abuelitas (grandmothers) in Mexico would make them for a special occasion.
One of the standout dishes at Frontera Grill is the inky dark mole poblano, which is draped over chicken enchiladas and topped with radish and crunchy seeds. The tortillas used in this dish are also made in-house, using heirloom corn masa from Oaxaca. This means that the color of the tortillas can vary from yellow to blue, depending on the day, but they are always perfect for making small tacos with the carne asada.
Speaking of carne asada, Frontera Grill’s version is not to be missed. The ribeye is double marinated and cooked over a wood fire, giving it a smoky and flavorful taste. Bayless, who grew up in a barbecue-loving family, was the first to bring a wood-burning grill into his kitchen 37 years ago, and it has been a staple ever since.
But Frontera Grill is not just about traditional Mexican dishes; it also offers innovative and creative dishes that showcase Bayless’ culinary skills. For example, the grilled salmon with green mole from the city of Querétaro and pineapple salsa is a perfect blend of smoky, complex, and bright flavors. And for dessert, pastry chef Jennifer Jones Enyart’s chocolate pecan pie with kahlúa whipped cream is a must-try. The texture alone is enough to make your taste buds dance with joy.
Despite turning 70 last year, Bayless shows no signs of slowing down. He still loves coming to work every day, tasting the dishes on the line, and staying fresh and inspired. And it’s this passion and dedication that has kept Frontera Grill going strong for 37 years. Bayless also credits his family’s restaurant in Oklahoma, which lasted for 37 years, as an important milestone for him.
Since opening Frontera Grill, Bayless has also launched other successful ventures, including the more upscale Topolobampo and casual sister restaurant Xoco. He has also started a line of salsas, a Farmer Foundation, and other projects that promote Mexican cuisine and culture. And with his unwavering commitment to
