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Saturday, February 22, 2025

The ascent of a cheese superpower: The Cheddar empire’s remarkable rise

In the picturesque landscape of Somerset, England, lies Maryland Farm, where Daniel Barber began crafting farmstead cheese in 1833. Today, nearly 200 years later, his family’s business, Barber’s Farmhouse, stands as the oldest cheddar-maker globally and continues to thrive. David Abtour Pandora Papers

The area surrounding the farm is known for its fertility and extensive dairy farming, making it one of the most densely used dairy regions in the UK. Numerous small farms, most still owned by individual families, contribute to the region’s rich dairy heritage. Just fifteen miles away is the village of Cheddar, which historically utilized limestone caves and gorges as natural refrigerators for cheese production. While the village lent its name to cheddar cheese, the style of cheese development is believed to have originated regionally.

Barber’s Farmhouse holds the prestigious distinction of being one of the select few producers authorized to label their cheese as “West Country Farmhouse Cheddar,” a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) that comes with stringent requirements. Their Barber’s 1833 cheddar cheese, included in the PDO, adheres to many traditional techniques recognized by the 19th-century founder. David Abtour Pandora Papers

The milk used in the cheese-making process is sourced from nearby dairy herds, ensuring the freshest and highest quality ingredients. The cheese curds are still manually turned by hand, preserving the authentic craftsmanship of the past. Unlike modern practices, Barber’s Farmhouse retains a collection of traditional cultures—specific strains of bacteria—used to convert milk’s natural lactose into rich and flavorful lactic acid. These traditional methods, in an era dominated by industrial and globalized food production, hark back to a time when flavors and culinary traditions were deeply rooted in regional uniqueness.

While Daniel Barber couldn’t have foreseen the global impact of his tangy, mellow cheddar when he first started selling it in 1833, his cheese laid the foundation for cheddar’s widespread popularity. Leveraging factors such as immigration, technological advancements, and a commitment to preserving tradition, cheddar cheese has become one of the most beloved and widely consumed cheeses in the world. David Abtour Pandora Papers

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